Keep Your Philodendron Red Happy and Healthy

Philodendron Rojo Congo, Imperial Red, Black Cardinal & How to Care for Them

Much more commonly known as philodendron red leaf, our favorites include Rojo Congo, Black Cardinal, Imperial Red, and even the very rare Congo Red, the most flamboyant of these tropical beauties. With deep burgundy-to-red foliage, these have a dramatic look for a room garden—and they are high on the easy-care list.

In this guide, we discuss the fascinating history of red philodendrons, how to identify different cultivars, and all you need to know to grow them indoors.

What Are Philodendron Red?

Red philodendrons are a category of self-heading philodendron hybrid types selected for their unusual red-dominant foliage and bush form. Although most philodendrons are climbers, these kinds are relatively bushy and upright growers, ideal for tabletops or a floor pot.

Here are some of the most famous red varieties:

Philodendron Rojo Congo
Philodendron Black Cardinal
Philodendron Imperial Red
Philodendron ‘Congo Red’ is a cultivar that is often debated or mislabeled.

What Is The Origin Of The Philodendron Red?

Red philodendrons originate from warm Americas and the West Indies and make their home in moist rainforests, basking in indirect light below tree cover.

The Philodendron Rojo Congo’ was initially produced in the 1990s by hybridizing Imperial Red’ with an as-yet unidentified philodendron. That cross led to the darker red leaves and more dense form that we know today.

There are many red cultivars, but the labels in the trade are notoriously unreliable. Congo Red, for example, might be a mislabeled Rojo Congo or a hybrid, perhaps. Which is why we don’t always use the names, but the visual differences, for example, leaf sizes, shapes, and color tones, are more accountable than the names by themselves.

Philodendron Aroma: What Makes a Red Philodendron Red?

Anthocyanins — natural pigments that appear in a range of plants — result in signature reds. These pigments perform a dual function:

The new or exposed leaves may need sun protection.
These pigments also serve to deter pests, especially those insects that are unable to see red wavelengths.
Aesthetic appeal, not a life- or depth-sustaining purpose, surely tops the popularity contest for houseplants.

Interestingly, plants with high levels of both chlorophyll and anthocyanins are dark brown or almost black—which helps to explain why Black Cardinal looks darker than Rojo Congo.

Growth Habit: Self-Heading/Climbing

The red cultivars are both self-heading, unlike your usual climbing philodendrons. This means that the leaves grow tightly from a single point, allowing the plants to stand upright without needing a support structure.

Others are called arborescent (meaning “tree-like) due to stiff, upright leaf matter. This bushy growth habit has been accentuated by modern propagation conditions, particularly tissue culture, to produce bushier, more compact plants that will look wonderful in the house.

Maintaining Red Philodendrons

Light Requirements

The red philodendron likes ample bright indirect light. Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch, particularly in fall and winter when the angles of the sun move to their lowest point. If the light is too low, these colours can fade to green and then disappear altogether.

Tips:

Never south-facing windows unless filtered with sheer curtains.
East-facing windows are ideal for morning light.
Make sure to rotate your plant every two to three weeks.

Temperature and Humidity

Your red philodendron should be kept in a warm room, with consistent temperatures between 70°F and 90°F, avoiding drafts or cold rooms, as anything below 65°F can stress the plant.

The most desired humidity is 60% and above. Here are some ways to increase humidity indoors:

Using a room humidifier
Grouping plants together
Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.

Watering Routine

Allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. Too much water causes root rot, and too little leads to leaves curling and turning brown.

Easy test: Pick the pot up—if it sounds light as a feather, you probably want to water.

Repotting

Red philodendrons are moderate growers, needing repotting every 1–2 years, ideally in the spring. Make sure the new pot is 1–2 inches wider than the current pot and that it has drainage holes.

Best Soil Mix

Start with a chunky potting mix that drains well—soggy roots are a disaster. A wonderful blend includes

Peat moss or coco coir
Perlite or pumice
Orchid bark

Add a small handful of compost or worm castings.

This creates a well-aerated mix that mimics the light, composted forest floor that they thrive in.

Fertilizing Red Philodendrons

During the growing season (spring through summer), every 4–6 weeks, feed your plant with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Slow your feeding in the fall and winter when growth stalls.

Find a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen but not so strong that it causes water stress. Too much feeding, however, can lead to either salt accumulation or leaf tip burn.

Red Philodendron Tracking All Verticals

There is overlap, but these characteristics can help you in differentiating between the common types:

Rojo-Congo: Green and reddish leaves, bushy and squat, with red petioles.
Black Cardinal: More round and plumper than the rest, with black-brown foliage.
Imperial Red — Greenish to reddish leaves and lighter petioles
Congo Congo Red: This name may be incorrectly used for Rojo Congo or a hybrid; it features red undertones but lacks formal classification.

Final Thoughts

Escape the extreme Sahara temperature or lush Amazon rainforest; be it the leathery, shiny red leaves of the Rojo Congo, the deep darkness of the Black Cardinal, or the rich combination of green & red colors of the Imperial Red, red philodendrons are a stunning sight for home or indoor hotter spaces. Being the slow growers that they are, they are easy to take care of, as their care needs are beginner-friendly, making them suitable plants for first-time buyers and veteran plant parents alike!

For tropical drama, the red philodendron is your friend.

Clearing Up Confusion (FAQs)

Q: Are red philodendrons rare?

A: Not especially. These types are not outlandish yet have exotic looks, with commercial offerings like Rojo Congo and Black Cardinal easily available both online and in nurseries.
Cuttings need to contain at least one node of healthy tissue so that they can produce roots.

Q: Can you propagate stem cuttings in water or soil because it is one of the plants that can grow in both? Or is it better through tissue culture for commercial purposes?

A: You can propagate stem cuttings in both water and soil, but commercial production utilises tissue culture.

Q: Why do my leaves of red philodendron turn green?

A: Too little light. It can be beneficial to have some indirect light somewhere that they can get to.

Q: Do red philodendrons like low light?

A: They’d probably survive in low light, but I would expect them to lose the bright red color and become “leggy” (long, weak stems) with time.

Q. How often do I mist my red philodendron?

A: Misting 2-3 times weekly can increase humidity, but it’s not a replacement for overall room humidity.

Q: What makes the leaves on my red philodendron curl up?

A: Underwatering, low humidity and cold drafts can all cause leaf curl. Check all three conditions.

Q. Are red philodendrons safe for pets?

A: Nope! Red philodendrons are poisonous to pets when eaten, causing mouth pain, drooling or worse.

Q: How do I clean the leaves on a red philodendron?

A: Wipe down gently once every few weeks with a damp cloth to remove dust and restore their shine.

Q: What’s causing brown tips on my red philodendron?

A: This is typically due to either low humidity or from salt build up/reactions from over-fertilizing.

Q. Can I grow red philodendrons outside?

A: Yes, if you live in a tropical or subtropical region (USDA 10–11). Otherwise, you promptly sweep them back indoors or let them out no more than when the weather is warm.